I
chose to just sit on the side and watch how things happen at the temple. What I
saw was to the western mind; total chaos. While 200 women are getting up and
going to the low tables to give a short prayer of gratitude and collect their
blessed offerings, another 200 are already pushing their way forward to place
their offerings down on the not yet emptied low tables which also need a short
kneeling down prayer before they get up to find a place in the courtyard to
pray. Meanwhile their husbands and children have sat down randomly in makeshift
rows (or not) . The sacred masks are being passed among the helpers among the
crowds to the 30 some dancers who have no dressing room or backstage and are
also coming through the crowds in order to pray before performing. The
policemen are closing the temple gates to the crowds since there is no longer
any room to sit more people inside, but if you tell them you need to go in for
whatever reason, they open the gate, or they leave the gate and people just
open it up again. Gambling is going on outside the wall of the temple two steps
away, along with tons of vendors selling cheap toys, and little kiosks of fast
food. As each round of 600 or so devotees are to be anointed by the 20 some
priests that are here for the special galungan ceremony of the victory of good
over evil, the courtyard that was already full to brimming seems to expand in
order that the priests are able to easily make their way through the seated
devotees without anyone having to move, and manage to anoint each one 7 times,
including all the little babies, and all of this without a word being spoken or
anyone tripping or being forgotten.
To
a typical onlooker it appears total bedlam, chaos, impossible. But as I stand
there for hours watching it all happening, and not hearing or seeing anyone
giving orders or trying to make order, I realize how orderly this chaos
actually is. It flows. It works. And the atmosphere is light and playful and
impossible to comprehend by means of western notions of order and control. No
entrance or exit signs from the 2 entrances, no assigned places, no one telling
anyone else how or where or what….it all just seems to work together.
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